The term ‘turban' got currency in the 15th and 16 century especially in Persian language, which was pronounced as "Dulband".Its etymology is apparently from ‘dul' or pronounced by Arabs as ‘tul', or ‘volvere' which apply to head-wrap.Perhaps from the Turks it passed on as Tulipant,Tolliban,Turbant, etc. in the European usage of Turban. In 1611, the French Dictionary Cotgrave explained "Toliban" as a Turkish hat of white colour which was even ornamented.

Thus apparently the word Turban originated from Persian and the English frequented its use. One l7th century traveler J.B.Tavernier wrote in 1676 that "Mohamed Alibeg returning into Persia out of India..presented sha-sefi the second with coconut about the bigness of an Austrik egg..there was taken out of it a Turbant that 60 cubit of calicut in length to make it, the cloth being so fine that you could hardly feel it".

Likewise, the use of the word turban for head-dress came into vogue in the medeival era. The head-dress in different regions of India is widely referred to as Pugree but pronunciation differs variedly. So, let's try the understand how today the head-dress is termed in major fifteen languages of modern India.

According to the Bharatya Vabahar Kosha, edited by Viswanath Dinkar Narvene the headdress is known in Hindi as Pugree. In Punjabi dialect this is called seerbund,Pugri and Dastar etc. In Urdu Dustar or Pugree meaning head-wrap. In Kashmiri language Safu or Dustar are common for head-wrap. In Sindhi-speaking belt the headdress is known as Patika or Patuka. In Maharashtra this is called Pugree or Pagota. Gujarati pronounce it as Paghri. In Bengal,Assam and Orissa regions the headgear is called Pugree,Paguree and Pagri respectively. In Telugu speaking belt the Talpag or Talguddred go for head dress. In Tamil it is called Tallippagee.In Kerala the head-wrap is known as Ushnisha or Shriobestana.These are the varied names of Head-dress or Pugree used in various Indian languages. Now we should try to fathom the evolution of Head-dress down the ages.

Historical Antecedents of Pugree

From a simple head wrap of pre-historic era the headdress came to be evolved into a gorgeous and glorious crown with the passage of time. Thus in order to delve into development and evolution of headdress we should address to the theme sectoring different periods of History.

The first concept of Headdress: C10,000 B.C. to 320 B.C.)

In the pre-historic rock sites in India like Bhimbetka to Kumaun Himalaya, we find evidences of rock-arts wherein the life style,amusement,head-gear is found. This is the start from historical point of view and then in the Mohenjodaro and Harappan culture we find the use of headdress.In those days men of higher social strata sported head-wraps which were richly padded clothes of varied shapes. They also had their hair tied with a ribbon. Men and Women of Royal families or Goddesses wore elaborate headgears and coiffure. But commoners did not sport any headgear. We find some descriptions of Indus headdresses which wire fan like structure and of spiral form and some were bossed head-dress.

In the post-vedic era 600-320 B.C. we find evidences of voluminous head-dresses mostly known as Ushnisha, and it became a common phenomenon. On the other hand, in the Vedic era Pugree was a concept of dignity and authority.The king who claimed soveringty had to wear a particular type of head-dress at the time of doing Rajsuya Sacrifice. Dr.G.S.Ghurye elaborated that " the head-dress known as Ushniha is the earliest mentioned in connection with eastern people known in early literature at the ‘Vratyas',.It is described as white and bright. It used to have cross-windings and was tied with a tilt".

Thus the spiral, fanlike shape of Indus head-wrap in the post vedic period evolved into a crossbind Ushnisha studded with Jewels. While in the Vedic era only persons of higher order of society sported Head-dress,and respected highly in the later vedic period. The commoners also earned the right to don head-dress.

USHNISHA (320 B.C. to 320 A.D.)

During the early Mauryan period one hardly finds any trace of male Mauli or Pugree, but in the Sunga period varied kinds of headdresses were developed. It is found that the hair itself was often twisted into the head-dress.According to Roshan Alkazi, the specialist in ancient Indian costume "This twisted braid being then arranged to form a protuberance at the front or the side of the head, but never at the centre top, as this style could be used only by priests. Over the turban a narrow band was used to hold it in place".

Pugree or Mauli used to be decorated with jewels and even fringe was attached to the headdress. Another form of Pugree is found which had top knot and two bands of cloth criss-crossed at the middle of the forehead and went upto the top knot covering it. Similar to this style in modern India sikh sport the turban.

In this period the females wore a kind of head-cover called Uttariya which had beautiful folded look and tied crosswise but straight unlike the Male head-gear which was vertical or sidewys. This Uttariya could be worn having at the back. It is interesting to note that beneath the Uttariya skull cap was worn to keep the headdress firm in its place.

Apart from these, it is gathered from archaeological sources that different strata of society donned different kinds of head-dresses. For example, the archer of Taxila used to wrap his head with a thin strip of cloth. The attendant of the archer covered his head with ample piece of cloth which resembled the contemporary head-dresses of an artisan or peasants.

From the remnants of Bodhisatva one could find the first pre-formed head dress known as Mandila. And in Sanchi one can see similar head-cover with jewel on the head of Kubera.

All these head-dresses underwent some sort of innovations under the influence of foreigners. During this period Pugree came into vogue like the one sported by Kushana Kings which was similar to the bulging head-cover of ancient Persia. However,the Kushana Kings sportated shorter head-gear.

Hieun-T-Sang's travelogue throw considerable light on the headdress of the people of Sarnath. He wrote the head dress ‘consists in most cases of a filled with a loosely wreath or mural crown into other cases'.Even caps with flower and foliage find mention in Hiuen-T Sang's account. These can be corelated with the discovery of human heads in Taxila, as S.N.Dar wrote "Fragments of human heads have been discovered in the

buried city of Taxila,some with round caps covering the entire head and ears, others with low or flat caps with or without fastening band."

From archeological evidences we find a clear description of head-dresses especially from Bharhut sculptures, Bhaja and Sanchi remnants. Let we glance through the important aspects in brief which would summarize the developments between 320 B.C. to 320 A.D.

The bas-reliefs of Bharhut stupa of the 2nd Century B.C. depicting pre-Nirvana Buddha's life provide us vital sources of information on the score of Headdress. The male head wraps were worn in different fashion. One can find richly ornamented light pugree with a roundish top above the forehead; and some were fan like arrangements with cylindrical protrusion. Evidences of Heavy turban with schematic folds and ornamented heavily were its characteristics. Moreover, some turbans had leaf and rosetta decoration.

The female head-covers were fancifully rich and ornamented. Even they used nets to give the Pugree a hard grip on the forehead. The headdress of Bhaja cave shows similar trends as we find in Bharhut, but the Bhaja pugs were interwoven with hair style as well.

Sculptural remnants of Sanchi Stupa depict high aesthetic specimens of Pugree but are devoid of elaboratness. One type of Ushinsha shows that the upper folds resembled a conch shell. Some Ushinisha had a projection on the Upper part to provide holder or ornamentations. Furthermore, the SANCHI stupa depicted turbans of cylindrical look. Evidences of skull and conical caps are also be found in the sculptures of Sanchi stupa.